Last week, the Market Kitchen kicked off the Holiday season with a market-inspired cocktail party and oyster bar. As we watched the guests cluster around the ‘shucker,’ it was obvious that people are fascinated by these little molluscs. They watched and critiqued the chef’s technique for opening oysters and debated about the best ways to adorn them (or just neat for the purists). And then the sampling began. We offered four varieties that night, so guests could compare and contrast flavours (and because it’s a good way to increase the total number of oysters purchased by offsetting the cost of more expensive varieties with cheaper ones.) People quickly found their favourites – and though collectively they did not agree on which variety was best – they did have fun tasting the differences among oysters grown in different locations.

Because oysters act as water filters, they take on ‘character of place’ giving them unique flavour profiles. To broadly generalize, it seems that lovers of East coast oysters like Malpeques (available at all three fishmongers in St Lawrence Market), Wellfleets (at Domenic’s) and Glacier Bay (at Mike’s) were drawn to their plump, clean meat with a good balance of creamy sweetness and brine, while fans of West coast oysters like Kumamotos (Dominic’s) enjoyed their more fishy-seawater flavour with hint of something vegetal and cucumber.

If you have never shucked an oyster before but would like to try serving them, ask one of the Market’s fishmongers to show you how (or buy them freshly shucked the day of your party). At least one hour before opening, scrub the oysters under cold running water. Place them flat on a pan in the refrigerator and cover with a wet towel to allow them to relax. Set up a little station of cocktail sauce, freshly grated horseradish, lemon wedges and Tabasco for guests to garnish their oysters as they like. And since not everyone is into ‘raw’, here’s an easy recipe for broiled oysters that feels very festive.
Enjoy.
Gabrielle

BROILED OYSTERS WITH BRANDY GRATIN
*These oysters appeal to guests who are squeamish about eating them raw. Choose a cheaper oyster like Malpeques because the brandy and cheese are very fragrant and flavourful.
Makes 12 pieces
12 oysters
2 tbsp melted butter
1 small shallot, minced
2 tbsp brandy
½ tsp minced fresh thyme
¼ cup finely shredded Gruyere cheese
Method:
Spread about 2 cups of coarse Kosher or pickling salt in an oven-proof baking dish. Shuck oysters, leaving on the half-shell; nestle and into salt so flat.
Stir together butter, shallots, brandy and thyme; spoon over oysters. Sprinkle with cheese. Broil oysters for 3 to 4 minutes or until cheese is bubbly and golden. Serve warm.

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